Happiness and Health

After reading the article in Surfer Magazine on Dorian (Doc) Paskowitz, I ordered his book, Surfing and Health, and have been reading it almost nightly. I’m almost done, but I wanted to jot down a few things that I’ve bookmarked to share with you. I’ve been so engrossed in reading his book, in addition to finally finishing off Breaking Dawn (the last of the Twilight series), that I haven’t been focused on writing!

Anyway, if you’re on the quest to be healthy like I’ve been these days, I think you’ll really enjoy Surfing and Health. It appears to be a self-published book, but regardless of some of the typos and minor editing errors, I’ve really enjoyed reading Doc Paskowitz’s insights on how to live a fit and flourishing life. I mean, at 90 years old, Doc is still surfing and maintaining his body fat percentage that he did at age 17: 14%! Hello?!!

Doc is truly a character. His life was the subject of a documentary, Surfwise, which I also watched after reading the Surfer article. Just a brief bio: Paskowitz was a Stanford-educated physician who gave up practicing medicine for a living in the traditional sense, and decided to become a professional surfer after he felt he was living a meaningless, fraudulent life. After finding his “successful” status-filled life sad and empty, he dropped out of society, married his wife Juliette, and spent 14 years raising their nine child­ren in various rented camper vans, travelling the globe and surfing every day they were within reach of the ocean.

According to Doc, health is much, much more than just not being sick. Health is the presence of a Superior State of Well Being – a vigor, a vitality, which must be worked for each and every day of your life. He gives us five pillars upon which health is based: diet, exercise, rest, recreation, and attitudes of mind.

I’m on the chapters for attitudes of mind right now, and I found this quote interesting: “Life has taught me that if there is no fun there is no health – no spirit. God loves happy people. He doesn’t punish people with unhappiness; he punishes unhappy people. I realized that what [one] does dutifully, without spontaneity, without joy – what one does by self-sacrifice is not truly productive because it’s not long lasting and creative.”

I found that observation so intriguing because I always tell people to choose happiness, whatever form that is, and I was so excited to see that Doc believes it is crucial to good health!

So, be happy! If you want to read the book, you’ll have to order it online at www.alohadoc.com. By the way, he signed my copy and wrote a short note – what a sweet sentiment! Thanks, Doc!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s